Maple Mania
Every since my father poured some maple syrup over a stack of pancakes he had made for Saturday breakfast, I’ve been hooked on the taste of maple.
Maple sugar, maple sugar candy,
maple icing, maple cookies—I’ve eaten them all and learned to make most of them. When looking up descriptions of maple’s distinctive flavor, I found a lot of scientific explanations, but to me, maple will always be sensation, light on the tongue, warm and delicate, rich like molasses, smelling of Christmas cookies and at the same time, tasting like a father’s love.
My mania for maple went into high gear when, a few years ago a good friend gave us a large jug of pure, best quality maple syrup from Vermont, the holy center of maple syrup production in the US. In my usual style, I began researching maple, on line, in books, in my kitchen and on the supper table. I now have tiny plastic jugs of syrup from Pennsylvania, New York, and Massachusetts alongside the jug from Vermont. Maple is very North American taste. Native Americans in today’s USA and Canada, introduced the rest of the world to maple and the art of “tapping” trees to obtain the sap and then make it into sugar or syrup. According to Maple Syrup World (http://www.maplesyrupworld.com/), Vermont is the largest U.S. producer of maple syrup, outpaced only by Canada’s Quebec province (far outpaced).
These glories of deciduous “tree-dom” have just finished flashing red leaves and are now building up the sap that will be drained off in late winter (January and February). The Vermont Maple Sugar Makers Association (VMSMA at vermontmaple.org) says, “Maple syrup contains an abundant amount of naturally occurring minerals such as calcium, manganese, potassium and magnesium and …is a natural source of beneficial antioxidants.” Maple is lower on the glycemic index, so if you tend to have troubles with sugar levels, but can still use a natural sweetener, then maple may be what you want. (Of course, consult with your physician , first). Maple syrup scores a 54 on glycemic index put out by http://www.sugar-and-sweetener-guide.com/, a rating that makes it a good choice for those watching their sugar intake.
VMSMA has recently re-branded the “grading” or labeling of syrups from an A-D rating, which implied one was “better” than the other was, to a rating that indicates the strength of flavor and color. A full explanation is on the website. Amanda Voyer, VMSMA representative says, “All maple syrup is good and good for you.” Therefore, the new system (new as of 2014) grades all as “A”, distinguishing among them by characteristics.
Check the little plastic jugs or glass bottles. Each grade will state a color and a flavor descriptor:
▪ Grade A: Golden Color with Delicate Taste
▪ Grade A: Amber Color with Rich Taste
▪ Grade A: Dark Color with Robust Taste (for cooking)
▪ Grade A: Very Dark Color with Strong Taste
This allows customers to select among types with regard to taste and color of this liquid ambrosia. It’s more like the rating of olive oil from first press to later processing’s, light to dark, lighter flavor to more intense. I find that lighter flavor of maple works well for straight eating or other uses, but for cooking, it is better to select a darker, more intense flavoring, such as I have several “jugs” of lighter syrup and when cooking with them, I add a teaspoon or so of natural maple extract to intensify. (Never artificial!) I usually purchase from Olive Nation (online, www.olivenation.com), their Pure Maple Extract. Some grocery stores carry the pure extract as well. Be careful not to buy the artificial flavoring. It will not taste the same. Trust me. I have tired both.
Cooking with maple
Over the years, I have expanded my own maple use from breakfast pancakes into the world of scones and cakes and cream cheese frosting. I’ve put it in oatmeal and poured it over sweet potatoes at Thanksgiving. Lately I’ve become intrigued with the idea of adding maple to savory main dishes. A natural first step for me is to try my old recipes with maple. I discovered it’s easy to substitute maple for other sugars (liquid and granular forms). The VMSMA suggests, “When cooking with pure Vermont maple syrup, substitute 3/4 to one cup of maple syrup for every one cup of granulated white sugar. Decrease the liquid in your recipe by 2 to 4 tablespoons for each cup of syrup used. Add 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon baking soda, unless your recipe already calls for buttermilk, sour milk or sour cream. Also, decrease your oven temperature by 25 degrees, as batters containing maple tend to caramelize around the edges more quickly. Pure, granulated maple sugar can be substituted one for one anywhere you use white processed granulated sugar.”
My editor sent the wonderful book that is reviewed in the Cook’s Corner, elsewhere in this section. It holds the answer to many questions you might have about substation of maple of other sugars, granular and syrup (like honey).
Maple is also a resource for where you can order these items if you are not planning a trip up to maple country any time soon. Yes, pure maple syrup is expensive, but it lasts a long time. I place open containers in the refrigerator, but unopened can decorate pantry shelves for many months.
Where to buy real, Pure Maple Syrup
Sadly, for those of us who live in the south, maple trees are a cold-loving deciduous variety. However, some local stores do carry pure maple syrup. You just have to ask. A number of maple producers have branched out from sugar, candy and syrup to dressings, jellies with maple in them and more. I am not talking about the stuff that comes in cabin shaped or long neck bottles that lines up on supermarket shelves next to the pancake mixes. No, I mean the stuff in little jugs, glass bottles or cans—found at places like Fresh market, or in the gourmet section of other markets and of course, by delivery.
If you do not know a producer, you can start with this list of Vermont producers who ship products: http://vermontmaple.org/maple-products/buy-vt-maple-syrup/ or https://www.maplesyrupworld.com, a Canadian site. You can also simply Google maple syrup along with the name of your favorite northeastern state (one with very cold temperatures and great trees) to find out sources with that state’s syrup for order.
Below is a chicken recipe from the Vermont Maple website. The vermontmaple.org site has many other recipes as well—from drinks to desserts, sides to main dishes. There are also three from Katie Webster’s wonderful new book on Maple, (see review on these pages).
Roasted Lemon-Maple Chicken
Reprinted with permission from the Vermont Maple Sugar Makers Association, http://vermontmaple.org/maple-recipes/roasted-lemon-maple-chicken/
Yields 4 to 6 servings.
Ingredients
One 4 pound chicken
2 lemons, one quartered and one for juicing
6 cloves of garlic, peeled and halved
1 small onion, quartered
2 tablespoons pure Vermont maple syrup
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Method
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Peel one of the lemons, removing long, thick strips of zest. Reserve the zest and juice the lemon into a bowl.
Combine the maple syrup and olive oil into the bowl and whisk to combine.
Rub the chicken all over with the lemon zest and the garlic.
Place the quartered lemon, onion, garlic, and lemon zest in the cavity of the chicken.
Brush with the lemon juice-maple mixture and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Place chicken in roasting pan and place in oven.
After 30 minutes, brush more of the lemon-maple mixture over the chicken and again after another 30 minutes.
Continue roasting for an additional 20 minutes or until the juices run clear when cut between the thigh and the body.
Let rest for ten minutes.
Sherry Orange Quinoa
Excerpted from Maple by Katie Webster. Reprinted with permission from Quirk Books.
Note from Katie: “I love the way the woodsy notes in the sherry vinegar highlight the maple in this dressing. Serve the quinoa warm or at room temperature.”
Makes 8 servings (using each 1 cup of quinoa and 1 cup of arugula)
Ingredients
6 strips uncooked bacon, chopped
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 red onion, diced
4 cups water
2 cups rinsed quinoa
¾ teaspoon salt
¼ cup dark pure maple syrup
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon orange zest
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup chopped curly-leaf parsley
8 cups baby arugula
Method
1. Place bacon in a large saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, 7 to 10 minutes, until crispy and browned. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined plate and pour off fat from saucepan.
2. To the saucepan, add 1 tablespoon oil and onion. Return to medium-high heat and cook, stirring often, 4 to 6 minutes, until onion is softened and starting to brown. Add water, quinoa, and salt, increase heat to high, and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Cover and reduce heat to medium-low or low to maintain a simmer. Simmer for 18 to 22 minutes, until water is absorbed and quinoa is tender.
3. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk syrup, vinegar, mustard, zest, pepper, and the remaining 3 tablespoons oil.
4. Add hot quinoa and stir to coat. Stir in parsley and bacon. Mound on top of arugula to serve.
Gluten-free Smoky and Sweet Turkey Chili
Excerpted from Maple by Katie Webster. Reprinted with permission from Quirk Books.
Note from Katie: “The famed New York Times food writer Craig Claiborne once said that chili con carne, not apple pie, might be America’s favorite dish. It certainly seems like it to me. My friends ask for chili recommendations more than any other recipe. So I knew this cookbook wouldn’t be complete without a maple-spiked chili!”
Makes 4 2-cup servings
Ingredients
2 tablespoons avocado oil or organic canola oil, divided
1 pound lean ground turkey 1 large Spanish onion, diced 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons chili powder
2 tablespoons ground cumin
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon ground dried chipotle, or to taste
4 1⁄2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
1 cup water
1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes, preferably fire roasted
1 15-ounce can dark red kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1/3 cup dark pure maple syrup 1 avocado, diced
1⁄4 cup chopped cilantro 1⁄4 cup toasted pepitas
Method
1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large heavy-bottomed soup pot or Dutch oven over high heat. Add turkey and cook, breaking up with a wooden spoon and stirring occasionally, until completely browned. Transfer turkey and any juices to a bowl and set aside.
2. Return pot to medium-high heat and add remaining 1 table- spoon oil. Add onion, garlic, and salt and cook, stirring often, for 6 to 10 minutes, until onion is soft and browned.
3. Add chili powder, cumin, paprika, and chipotle and cook, stirring, for 30 to 90 seconds, until spices are fragrant and starting to toast and darken slightly.
4. Add vinegar and stir for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until liquid is evaporated.
5. Add water and bring to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits and spices from the bottom of the pot.
6. Add tomatoes, beans, syrup, and browned turkey, stirring to combine. Increase heat to high and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low to maintain a gentle simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 14 minutes, until turkey and onions are tender.
7. Serve topped with avocado, cilantro, and pepitas.
Maple Apple Crumb Pie
Excerpted from Maple by Katie Webster. Reprinted with permission from Quirk Books.
Note from Katie: “Using a blend of Macintosh apples, which cook down and become soft, and firmer, sweeter varieties (Pink Lady is a good choice here) gives this pie filling better texture and flavor.” Makes 10 slices
Ingredients
Crust
1 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1⁄2 cup all-purpose flour, plus a bit more
1 tablespoon maple sugar or brown sugar 1⁄4 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter
2 tablespoons avocado oil or organic canola oil
3 to 5 tablespoons ice water
Filling
1 1⁄4 pounds Macintosh apples, peeled and cut into thick slices (6 small apples)
3⁄4 pound firm, sweet apples, peeled, cored, and cut into thin slices
(2 medium apples)
3⁄4 cup dark pure maple syrup
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon cornstarch
Topping
1⁄2 cup
1⁄4 cup old-fashioned oats
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 2 tablespoons dark maple syrup
Pinch salt
Method
Make crust:
In a food processor fitted with steel blade attachment, pulse flours, maple sugar, and salt until combined. Cut in butter and process until mixture resembles coarse meal.
Remove lid and drizzle in oil. Replace lid and pulse 3 or 4 times. Remove lid and drizzle in 3 tablespoons ice water evenly around mixture. Pulse several times until mixture is even. Remove lid and squeeze mixture. If dough holds together but isn’t tacky, form it into a ball. If it’s crumbly and doesn’t come together, drizzle another 1 to 2 tablespoons ice water and process quickly. Gather dough and flatten into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
Place a rack in the bottom third of the oven. Preheat oven to 375°F.
Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface to a circle about 14 inches in diameter. Transfer to a 9-inch pie plate (not deep dish). Roll overhanging dough under itself all along the edges. Gently press dough into a short wall along the rim of plate and then crimp the edges. Set aside in a refrigerator.
Make filling: In a large bowl, stir apples, 3⁄4 cup syrup, flour, lemon juice, cinnamon, and cornstarch.
Make topping: In a medium bowl, stir walnuts, flour, oats, butter, syrup, and salt. Work together with clean hands until mixture is evenly moistened and clumps together.
Combine and Bake
Add apple mixture to dough shell. Top evenly with crumb topping.
Bake for about 30 minutes, until starting to brown.
Reduce heat to 325°F and continue baking for 60 to 70 minutes, until filling bubbles.
Let cool to room temperature before slicing, about 1-1⁄2 hours.
This story was originally published November 17, 2015 at 12:04 AM with the headline "Maple Mania."