Cafe Old Vienna retains charm, great food in larger space

Cafe Old Vienna, long a popular Myrtle Beach restaurant, has moved to a new and larger location.

The Old Vienna has been a favorite place to meet friends for lunch and to enjoy a dinner out. Its specials run the range of German and Austrian dishes, as well as American fare. Although one might think of this style of cooking as heavy, the food is always well-prepared and light.

The previous location, in a shopping center at 38th Avenue North, was a cozy little shoebox of a space. Cafe Old Vienna is now in an open and airy building. This new space looks a lot like a Bavarian beer hall with a lovely polished wood bar at the front and a small backdrop and stage at the back. Also at the front, right next to the register, as it was in the old location, is a case full of pastry temptations, including Martina Horvath’s rightly famous apple strudel, among the best I have ever tasted, including in Vienna, Austria.

Owners Werner and Martina Horvath carefully thought through how to maintain the quality of food and service when they moved to the larger space and embraced the benefits of more space. The new building is large enough to accommodate many diners with almost three times the interior space of the old restaurant and an outdoor dining area. The new location is a bit farther south and is in walking distance of the Sky Wheel.

On our recent visit, I ordered the wiener schnitzel, a breaded veal cutlet with their amazing, lighter than air, spatzle and world-class red cabbage. The entire plate lived up to its previous excellence. My husband Joe branched out — he usually orders the farmer schnitzel, but on our last visit, he ordered the sauerbraten and pronounced it excellent, tender juicy meat, the brown sauce light, not heavy and, of course, the spetzle and cabbage, delightful. I did not have room for dessert. (In fact, I took some of my veal home and enjoyed a cutlet sandwich the following day).

Rather than try to imitate their former intimate scene, the Horvaths have created an atmosphere a bit more Bavarian-style than old cafe and offer a beer garden in the outside area. In addition, in the larger space, they have room for music. Against a backdrop was painted an Austrian-German-Swiss mountain scene by the restaurant’s own resident artist and kitchen worker, Grigori Pligau.

On a recent Wednesday night, we enjoyed the accordion music of Peter Weiss. Dressed in lederhosen, he played German folk songs (and encouraged a sing-along), offered a medley of patriotic U.S. tunes a la George M. Cohen, and, of course, several times, treated the room to renditions of “Edelweiss.” The volume of the live music was loud enough for patrons to hum, sing or tap along, but low enough for us to have nice conversation at our own table, with ease.

On Saturday nights, various guitar artists’ music provides the background to the genial scene. Music is also offered on other occasions, such as St. Patrick’s Day. The restaurant’s website and a sign-up for its email list will keep you informed of their special events, discount offerings and special meal options.

The wait staff — almost all of the old staff made the move — choreographed passage among the tables with perfection. The food comes out hot and delicious, and the dirndl-skirted girl who waited on us appeared at just the right moments to ask how we were doing and seemed genuinely pleased to serve us.

The sense of hospitality that permeates the place is a carryover from the old location and is reflected from the top down with Martina and Werner, who call themselves the hosts of the place, not owners. They easily accommodate gluten-free — several offerings are listed on the menu — and are quite ready to help with any other dietary needs.

One visit is all it takes to develop a fondness for the new space. Cafe Old Vienna is open Tuesday through Saturday, with the bar open all day. Call for reservations.

This story was originally published April 16, 2015 at 9:14 AM with the headline "Cafe Old Vienna retains charm, great food in larger space."