Cookbook Corner | North Carolina recipes, heritage explored in ‘Foods’ book

From the very first page, it is apparent that Bob Garner’s “Foods That Make You Say MMM-MMM” is more than a recipe book. In this slim but packed volume, Garner gives an entertaining, just-right commentary on North Carolina heritage foods — from fish stew to Krispy Kreme to Cheerwine and barbecue — a compendium of festivals, a list of good restaurants and, oh yes, recipes for those who want to recreate these bits of culinary history at home.

Garner is a North Carolina resident and his expertise covers that state just north of the border. However, several of the places he lists as iconic eateries, examples of the type of food offered, are just over that border in Brunswick County’s Calabash and Varnumtown.

Garner’s credentials to provide this sort of a volume are impeccable. He writes a column for North Carolina’s Our State magazine (Bob Garner Eats), has his own show on N.C. public television (“North Carolina Weekend”) that is both travel and food, and is a barbecue expert. He also has a regular gig with The Pit in Raleigh as its Minister of Barbecue Culture and consults on menu, training and special events. Garner has written books on that very subject and has appeared on Paula Deen’s show, “guested” with Bobby Flay and been a feature on “Good Morning America.”

The organization of the book lends itself more to a history/travel guide, even though the sections are arranged by historical food type — Fish Stew is the first chapter. Then comes Fish Camps, etc. Each segment offers history, restaurants and festivals where you can sample the food, and a few recipes. Other food features are the Oysters Scuppernong and Muscadine Grapes, Barbecue, Brunswick Stew, Banana Pudding and Peach Cobbler, Collards (and Pickles) Livermush, which he calls the poor man’s pate, Moravian cooking, Country Ham, and Sauces. (He includes Cheerwine and Pepsi in this section as well, two soft drinks with North Carolina origins.) I had never heard of some of these products, and Garner tells us how to obtain them. His down-home style makes this a fun gift for any foodie on your gift list.

Many of the festivals that he describes are now on my list for travel — before they disappear forever. His two favorite Calabash places for the famous Calabash fried seafood are the Calabash Seafood Hut, 1125 River Road, and Coleman’s Original Calabash Seafood Restaurant, 9931 Nance St., where Garner says they cook using the old recipes and in small batches. The Calabash Seafood Hut is open for business, but a fire destroyed the Coleman’s building last fall, and the rebuild is not quite finished (check Facebook at www.facebook.com/originalcalabash#_=_ for updates).

Garner’s choice for an oyster roast is in the fall at Varnumtown church. Varnumtown is about 30 minutes north of Myrtle Beach on U.S. 17 and then east on Route 130. I would advise calling the Varnumtown church in early October for details on the event.

This story was originally published April 7, 2015 at 8:00 AM with the headline "Cookbook Corner | North Carolina recipes, heritage explored in ‘Foods’ book."