Food & Drink

Cooking, entertaining and photography make up ‘3 Times’ cookbook

By Joan Leotta

For The Sun News

Cooking, entertaining, photography—these three are a recipe for inciting blog followers to want to make what they read about. And, after a bit, this trio creates the demand for the insights and recipes shared on the blog (Trois fois par jour) to be put into book form. Such is the path to creation taken by the creators of this lovely entry into this year’s cookbook field.

This is a beautiful book and the story of its inception, beyond the aggregation of the blog makes it all the more worth reading. One of the authors, Marilou, is a musician who struggled with that industry’s body demands to bring herself out of anorexia. Marilou says that the main inspiration for the book is to improve people’s relationship with food—to put tangible solutions on the table and nourish spirits and bodies alike. The blog and this book are a part of her victory over her eating disorder and a the building of a new and wonderful relationship with food. Three times a day—recommended eating and reading.

Organization-wise the book is laid out in a logical fashion—tips, to breakfast, to lunch, to snacks and then, a division of main courses by type of food—soups, seafood, meat, pasta and desserts.

What is different about these recipes is the spin. Yes, on the surface many of the recipes appear ordinary, but closer examination reveals a level of experimentation with ingredients. The breakfast oatmeal is a symphony of chia, berry and pomegranate. Smoothies are included but the book does not stop there. In a nod to the new-ish pursuit of nut “milks”, this book describes how to make your own!

Many of the recipes, even for familiar items have a nuanced “newness” like using maple syrup or honey instead of sugar or other sweeteners. Or the recipes take a familiar ingredient, like sweet potatoes and reform it into a use we had not previously considered. For instance, a sweet potato veggie pate offers itself as an interesting appetizer choice. Vegetarian options include items like quinoa burgers and the various fish options often offer a twist. For instance, salmon, a staple item for those wanting a healthy fish meal, makes an appearance along with caramelized fennel in a chevre tartlet. I had never considered such a pairing, but now am reconsidering how I think of salmon on the plate. I like the fact that when a side dish is particularly suited to a main course recipe, the Champagne duet places that recipe right alongside the main recipe and even tells you when to start the side dish.

Meat is not ignored, in fact it is celebrated. My favorite among the many offerings in this book is the treatment suggested for pork loin, along with a side dish. While the sauce is simple and inventive, it is the use of cauliflower as a side dish that raises it to “ahhhhhh.”

At A Glance

Title | 3 Times a Day

Author | Marilou and Alexandre Champagne

Publisher | Gibbs Smith

Price | $24.99

Pork Tenderloin with Honey Mustard Glaze and Chickpea Cauliflower Mash

Reprinted with permission from 3 Times a Day by Marilou and Alexandre Champagne

Ingredients

For the Glaze

1/2cup honey

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

2 pork tenderloin fillets

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1 tsp smoked paprika

For the Mash

A bit of vegetable oil, for cooking for the mash

3 cups cauliflower florets

1 can (19 oz) chickpeas, drained and rinsed

2 cloves garlic, cut in half

3 tbsp chopped fresh parsley

2 tbsp chopped fresh chives

1/4 cup olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Method

Preheat the oven to 400°∆F.

In a small bowl, combine the honey and Dijon. Set aside.

Season the pork tenderloin with salt and pepper, and then rub with smoked paprika. Set aside.

In a large pan, heat a bit of vegetable oil over high heat. Sear the pork on each side, until nicely browned. Transfer the pork to an oven-safe dish, and then brush them with the honey mustard glaze.

Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, flipping the pork halfway through cooking. Remove from the oven and set aside.

For the Mash

Meanwhile, bring a pot of water to a boil, and then add the cauliflower, chickpeas, and garlic. Cook for 10 minutes, drain, and transfer to a food processor.

Add the remaining mash ingredients and process. Season with salt and pepper, and serve with the pork.

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