Thursday, Nov. 11, 2010

Talking turkey...and wine

Being the wine geek among my family and friends, I get bombarded with pairing questions this time of year. Planning the perfect holiday meal seems to weigh heavy on the minds of home chefs, guests and just about anyone wanting to enjoy some vino with the traditional feast of the season.

The hardest part about pairing wine with Thanksgiving fare is that there are so many flavors on the table that it becomes difficult to pick one to match with the wine. The sweet potatoes (which always have little marshmallows on top for some reason), roasted turkey, honey and spice glazed ham, stuffing and cranberry sauce make for a challenging table to pair. Throw in plenty of gravy and buttery biscuits and you really have a wine dilemma.

There are many opinions when it comes to wine pairing and turkey dinners. None of which are incorrect, but some are more attractive to the palate for my taste than others. A good starting point for any pairing is to always drink what you like first and foremost. If you don't like the wine by itself, you aren't going to like it with food.

We don't have the time nor space to consider what everyone likes in one sitting, so let's talk about ideals. I have tried most every style of wine with the typical holiday meal based on suggestion and chance. Here are some great pairings for your Turkey Day feast that I've been privy to through the years.

White Wine

The wine that I always have at the table on Thanksgiving is an Alsatian pinot gris. It's the same grape as the Italian and American pinot grigio, but it lends more spice and mineral qualities than citrus fruit. There can be a slight sweetness to them as well which will help to balance the spices that are commonly used. The soil in Alsace lends the characteristics that act as a balance to the food. Pinot gris is very versatile and will be as refreshing to drink once the meal is complete as it was with the feast.

Another wine for the Turkey dinner is gruner veltliner. It is a lesser known grape produced mainly in Austria, but has found its way into the American restaurant scene earlier this century due to its versatility with food. "When in doubt, go with the gruner" was a common phrase around one of the places I worked during the first years of its popularity in America. Gruner veltliner holds notes of citrus, peach and spice at its best. These qualities are very easy to drink with most any food and makes gruner a great choice for Thanksgiving.

It seems you can't have a special occasion in the U.S. without someone requesting a glass of chardonnay. Rightfully so as it put American wine on the map, so to speak. The butter and oak that riddle the typical American chardonnay bottles happens to work just fine with Thanksgiving. However, you run the risk of getting a "butter overload" if the wine is not balanced from the start. Not to fear chardonnay fans, there is a solution.

In a contrast of style, the chardonnay from Chablis, France and South Africa also bode very well on the holiday table. Many of these from across the pond are aged in stainless steel tanks that don't impart the "toasty" flavor. These wines will balance the fat and cream of the meal with nice acidity and crisp flavors. There are a few domestic bottles of chardonnay that have similar characteristics. Just look for the phrase "un-oaked."

Red Wine

My absolute "go-to" red wine for Thanksgiving is Chateauneuf-du-Pape. This Rhone Valley wonder is a blend of as many as 18 varietals. However, the main grape is almost always grenache. They will lend a nose of dried herbs, but sit with spice and earth on the palate. All of these are compliments to most of the food for Thanksgiving. Plus, the French label may impress your relatives who may not be as wine savvy as you are.

A close second to Chateauneuf-du-Pape is pinot noir. Specifically, Oregon pinot noir. The Willamette Valley in Oregon produces some of the best pinot in the world. They are a little pricey in comparison, but the earthiness and subtle berry flavors will not disappoint.

California's Los Carneros, on the southern border of Sonoma and the western border of the Napa Valley, is another great region for a Thanksgiving pinot noir. They tend to show more spices, such as cloves, and darker berry flavors. Just remember that, when you buy pinot noir, you get what you pay for.

Syrah, or shiraz, depending upon where it is made, is another homerun holiday wine. The flavors of these wines can vary greatly depending upon the aging method. However, most will impart hints of coffee, black pepper and dark berries. By far the boldest selection I have mentioned, but still a great compliment to the food. The Australian and South African wineries will call this grape shiraz, but it is the same as the French and American syrah.

Don't let this time of year be haunted with chance choices at the wine shop. Believe me that there are many other wines that will work just fine with the turkey and fixin's. Any wine shop clerk should be able to steer you in the right direction when it comes to finding what you need. Remember, you can't go wrong if you pick a wine you like.

Cheers!

Kevin Hoover, a local foodie, is engaged in the endless pursuit of the perfect cocktail and dining experience. Check out his blog at lushlifeonline.com.